Muscle Car Air Cleaners Auto Repair

During the muscle car heyday, originality was quickly discarded in favor of new owners gaining additional performance from their muscle car. Fast forward 25 years and the resurrection of the performance years and originality began. Buyers yearned for that nostalgic new car romance once again - a little older, wiser, and far more appreciative of the way things used to be. As time went by, originality became the desired state - creating a need for parts that were available in large quantities at one time, yet dwindling as time goes by.

5Original - the state of a muscle car as it rolled out of the factory doors. It has often been said that a car can only be original once. A mass of parts were designed, engineered, and assembled in order to provide a car that would be unique by brand. The way it came from the factory is key to today’s collector car market, as well as car shows across the globe. Original parts are becoming increasingly more difficult to find - namely because of attrition over 5 decades. Mother Nature has also added to the reduction of original parts, making them scarce and desirable at the same time. Keeping those original parts with the car is the mark of originality today - helping to sustain stronger values on properly documented muscle cars. Original simply retains all of the exposure (patina) to a part over its lifetime. It may appear rusty, tattered, bent, or faded - but, it is a survivor.

Reproduction - a copy of the original. While in most cases, today's reproduction parts are very good. In fact, some are even better than the original! These parts fill a niche where original parts are far too expensive (hemi, LS6, Shaker, etc...). By obtaining the original tooling, or retooling altogether, companies bring products to market that otherwise would not be available. This keeps the muscle car hobby alive, as the amount of original scarce parts remaining continue to be consumed in restoration or sustaining original cars. 

Also worthy of mention is the chrome enhancement option. GM ,Mopar, and AMC offered varying forms of engine dress up kits - from valve covers to air cleaner lids. In some instances, these were standard fare, while others were dealer options. Early GTOs featured a chrome lid, while later Judge models were black. 427 Impala SSs, 70 Z28 Camaros, 68/69 Chevelle SS 396s came with chrome lids, while 350 SS cars came with either style. Restorations usually accept either style - the owner's preference determines which is desired. Note that dealers also installed them once in inventory, compounding the “original” determination.

Restored - the art of carefully returning an original part to the state at the time of production. The restoration process requires an original candidate - one that isn't so far beyond repair or so costly it isn't worth it. What was once considered "junk" in the 80's is selling for 5 digits and beyond today - so restoration continues to evolve with time. Reworking an original piece back to a period correct appearance takes time, patience, and desire. Researching paint colors, graphics, and obtaining parts that return it back to that status - coupled with reworking the parts - leads to a finished product that creates an original look. Making an item appear "period correct" is a reflection of how the item should have looked "back in the day." 

So which is right for you? Only you can decide.

The restoration process of any air cleaner starts with a good solid core. Most of our parts are original (if not, we will state so in the ad). Each piece is selected based on originality, condition, and effort required to restore.  Core parts are sourced through a variety of outlets: swap meets, prior customers, on-line outlets, forums, local gatherings, and major websites. Depending upon availability and price, these parts are then added to the "work in process" queue. An average of 4-5 labor hours are used on each piece. We also conduct the necessary research that leads to the most correct representation and graphics - ensuring customers will receive the right product. Decals, graphics, and necessary add-ons are sourced using aftermarket reproductions or OEM items as available.

Each item goes through a media blasting process. We use a 6’ blast cabinet machine set to 100 psi - this aids in removal of old paint, as well as creates an etched surface for the base primer to adhere to. After the base primer is applied, any additional surface repairs are made. Materials used include two-stage epoxy, featherlight fillers, and 3M red putty as required. This material is used sparingly and only after metal work (if required) has been completed. Note that any item that has been powder coated requires an additional amount of work (and a different process) to remove the powder coating.

Once surface preparation is complete, components are wet-sanded by hand. This leads to a very clean surface that allows the final paint to adhere and presents an authentic representation of how these items would have come from the factory.

Prior to completing the visuals, each part is inspected for quality to ensure there are absolute minimal issues. We do not take out factory waves or blems (this is the typical difference between original and aftermarket pieces). Once painting is completed, parts are hand-buffed to provide an original finish. Not all pieces are relieved of orange peel - the factory didn't remove this either (again, another difference between over-restored/aftermarket items and original). The finished product receives appropriate air cleaner service decals, graphics, and an air filter.

Since each year and manufacturer vary, there is no way to ensure every item is correct to every application. Two plants producing the same cars used varying means of production - meaning the same air filter service decal could be applied in two different locations. 

Which is corrrect? That depends upon who is looking at your car.

Of course, documenting the authenticity of any air cleaner is in the details. Typically,  the original decals are faded, but still clearly legible. Noting the exact location, as well as the content, is important in the restoration process.

The "twin bar" marks on the bottom of the air cleaner lid are a true sign of original paint. The factory placed these lids on an assembly jig and painted them, leaving two paint lines void of paint. During the restoration, this step is omitted, as bare metal makes a perfect invitation for rust.

The inside of an air cleaner is often a place for water to accumulate due to storing in the open, or a faulty lid seal - all with no means of draining. Some air cleaners (Buick GS/Mopar Air Grabbers/earlier Mopar Dual Snorkels, AMX 390) featured drain holes in the event water enters. While this is a great idea, it is not original to most air cleaners. 

The next step involves media blasting to remove all prior finishes. Since parts are over 40 years old, there can be a lot of "surprises" hidden under the finish. Often times, what appears as a solid core becomes an expensive donor due to hidden rust. This is the difference between a quick home spray and a thorough restoration.

Once blasted, bare metal units are left in an "etched" state - this means that the next coating will have a very solid surface to adhere to. The use of self-etching primer enhances both adhesion and final coating properties, helping to ensure a very nice final product which has far longer protective qualities.

It is during this process where time value is consumed. Reproduction parts are stamped from raw metal, while the restoration requires man-hours to process - hence the cost of restoration is always higher (just like your car). 

The finished product - after media blasting, priming, detailing, painting, and graphic installation - leads to the period correct image. The outcome is a nice semi-gloss finish - separating these from the under-finished reproductions. Use of higher quality licensed restoration products enhances the appearance and makes that initial first glimpse of your engine stand out to onlookers. 

Not all air cleaner service decals are available, largely due to being initially silk screened or stamped at the factory. The next best thing is a reproduction decal - most onlookers will never know the difference, but it is a detail worthy of mentioning. Using licensed decals provides distinct original appearances, as well as improved lifespan. Many decals were foil based, while several of today’s decals are vinyl or paper backed - a big difference when installing and maintaining them is considered. We also contract with our suppliers to make a limited run of special decals that aren’t massed produced – this helps add authentication and certainly enhances details.

Media blasting requires equipment, media, and patience! Cleaning parts prior to going into the blast equipment can indicate problem areas before spending time in the blast cabinet. A typical 50 year old part will have an accumulation of grease, dirt, and oil residues that clog and absorb media. Removing this helps to improve the quality of the blast, as well as enhance the finished product with an etched surface.  

Blasting media comes in many forms. glass, garnet, oxides, shells, etc...all have their place when removing unwanted surface material. It is this distinction of knowing what media to use, the aggressiveness of the media (grit), and the technique required to leave the desired "white" finish, or overheating of metal that can lead to distortion.  

Each use requires investment (media typically sells for $35 or more for 10 #'s or volume equivalent). Selecting the right media for the job is an important step in the process. Aluminum components are very soft - this requires a media that will not "eat" into the material; steel is much stronger, but subject to rust and "blow thru" - where holes below rust scale show up very quickly. Use of the correct material for the job is essential.

A typical air cleaner takes 1 hour to blast - this includes the top (both sides), the inside, outside, and snorkel(s). Larger surface area takes longer, as does any finish outside of factory paint. Over the years, we’ve seen multiple layers of paint/primer/who knows what on air cleaners. To get the best end result, it takes a great deal of patience to clean down to metal. Overhanging air cleaners (early Buick Rivieras) have a lot of surface tucked up under; Mopar air cleaners have multiple grooves; GM products feature flame arrestor filters that have to be covered in order to reduce deflection of media inside the mesh, while AMC had peculiar baffles. Each item can take a lot of time, which is why price points aren't as economical as someone who simply sprayed over existing finishes with the obvious still underneath! 

Industrial blast cabinets that feature a pot, self-returning, and self-cleaning systems are best. This effectively recycles the material, sifts out dust, and maintains visibility within. Maintenance is expensive, but continues to keep the process focused on the job, not on problem solving.

Once items have been blasted, they are left in an etched stage (white finish). This is the difference between old fashioned hand-sanding, wire brushing, etc...and clearly makes a difference in the restoration process.

The parts are now ready for the next stage of restoration that leads to priming, drying, wet-sanding, final preparation, and final coating. Our preference is a self-etching primer - it adheres very well to the fresh metal, as well as providing a strong base for any final work to be applied.

Waves are factory anomalies that are stamped into the metal - most typically found in the air grabber bases along the side where the air grabber seal would come into contact with the base.  This is common on both sides, as the stamping process from 1969 - 1972 wasn't about quality or aesthetics beyond 5 years. Original parts feature these waves - with all due consideration, Ma Mopar was not concerned about authenticity of parts 50 years later - tier suppliers were in a business to provide parts at the most cost-effective rate possible.

Drains are another area where originality clearly shows blemishes (blems). The crude brass welds are evident at the base of the drain tube on the bottom of the air cleaner. Again, this was done to meet the OEM requirements, not become a show piece 40 plus years later. Maintaining authenticity allows original parts to easily be distinguished from after market products - keeping in mind that there is a place and time for both types of parts.

The evidence of the heating an area caused by brazing shows a 3" circle around the drain. When the part was painted, this was simply covered up. Part of the challenge with any drain tube is water accumulation and quick disbursement. Since quality wasn't always JOB 1 (sorry Ford fans), water would pool in these areas - leading to rust. Add in that Tier suppliers did NOT prime metal air cleaners (this runs through Mopar and GM) and the likelihood of rust over time was compounded. When media blasting is completed, evidence of any original waves & blemishes are apparent. 

Simply hand sanding would not illustrate these anomalies, leading to the potential of flaking/rusting in the very near future. It is fortunate that Mopar drains were brazed with high brass content - something that avoided major rust problems. However, any water that settled on the assembly likely led to rust over time, as the factory paint was thin and inconsistent.

Research, experience, and persistence are some of the requirements to successfully restore muscle car parts.

Having grown up in the 60's around muscle cars, one can recall the performance and image each brand personified. Hot rods were king in the early 60's, then muscle came on board. From Mopar to Chevrolet to Buick to Olds & AMC....each had a place in history. Exposure to these brands solidified the appreciation for all - and helps us today to recreate the air cleaners and ancillary parts to the correct appearance with the right accessories and images.

Restoring air cleaners, valve covers, and other image-conscious parts takes time - time in research to ensure the part presented is correct; time in preparation, and time to find the correct reproduction parts. Simple items like air filters are difficult to find in many parts of the country, let alone in Europe/Scandinavia, or Australia. Getting the right filter is essential in making the air cleaner function as intended. 

Air cleaner service decals also come in many forms, letters, part numbers, etc...Some were even introduced as "early" or "late" during the production years (thanks GM!). Air filter breather adapters are also specific - GM typically used "ribbed" hose as the adapter between the breather filter and the hose for crankcase ventilation (not your typical Goodyear heater hose section). The OEM lid seals are also essential to ensure a good seal between top and base; reusing the old dried out seal is out of the question unless there is no good alternative.

Each manufacturer used a variety of means to paint items. Mopar and GM didn't prime any of their air cleaners (they applied an absolute minimum coating of copper) - a point that leads to rust after time. GM lids in particular were set on twin bars about 9" apart, then conveyed through the paint booth - leaving two unpainted areas behind. All GM bases were painted vertically - over-zealous painters typically caused runs. In the restoration world, while these flaws could be recreated, it seems that owners don't want this level - they expect their assembly to look new and be protected from the elements. The inside of snorkels may or may not have received a coat of paint either - again, leading to degradation over time.

Date codes were applied to many GM air cleaners in the 60s up through the late 70s. These generally followed the Julian Calendar (1-365), along with a month and shift number. In some instances, an actual month/day/year stamp was used (depending upon the factory it was made in). Most were found on the interior flange area, but some were stamped on the bottom of the snorkel (Olds 4-4-2). Mopar used "Made In Canada" stamps - largely due to the home of Fram/Allied Signal at the time. These stamps add value and authenticity - a nice touch that differentiates our products from others.

Displacement decals, pie tins, and plates are also critical as a finishing touch. Matching the right vintage to an air cleaner (63 Buick Riviera vs. 64-66) requires a clear understanding of what the manufacturers were striving to convey at the time (Cubic Inches vs. Net Torque in this case).  Mopar used a variety of pie tins and decals of various colors to distinguish their muscle; Buick Ram Air, Olds 4-4-2, and Chevrolet cowl induction nomenclature adds eye appeal and function - provided they are correct.  AMC followed suite with their Red/White/Blue descriptions too.

Each manufacturer varied designs of the air cleaner assemblies over the years. Mopar contracted with Fram/Allied Signal to build their performance air cleaners. All were made in Canada (hence the Made In Canada stamps). While it is cool to have a dual snorkel air cleaner, the correct version for each year is essential. Several so called "restorers" like to sell motor home air cleaners as a true muscle car assembly - a practice that often dups first-time Mopar restorers. Others add decals/stickers that make the assembly look close - another means of taking customers for a ride. Rest assured that we thoroughly research each item to avoid these pitfalls.

Getting it all together, correctly, and ready to make an enthusiast very happy is the goal of our work. Simply spray-bombing and turning items is not acceptable - customers deserve better. Our time is invested in all of these aspects to ensure you get the very best assembly that we can produce. 

As with all sales, you have 14 days for satisfaction - although it will only take a minute to install it and get that smile with a great feeling of pride!